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Breedings hints and tips!

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Pyfe

PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2005 6:53 pm
Hoorah! Let's share our fish-breeding secrets with other fanatics!  
PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2005 6:54 pm
I'll start off.

Hint:

You need more than one fish in order to breed. xd  

Pyfe


SquishyAngeh
Crew

PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2005 10:22 am
I think I will share this:

1: you have to have a seperate tank that is big enough for the fish.

2: it needs to be very very clean.

3: no other species of fish in the tank other than that of which you are breeding, unless they are live berers they will breed with anything in the tank, you just have to find somewhere to put the mother before she gives birth.....unless you like trying to scoop out 50 babies before they all get eaten.

4: Read up on that species of fishes breeding requirements.....like how much light, how big of tank, how much planting, caves?

that is what I put in.......  
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 2:28 pm
When breeding live bearers, ie guppies, swordtails, platies and mollies. Always have more then one female to every male. If you don't the male will harass the female and she sometimes will hide from him and make the breeding process longer then it would have to be.  

Sugar Slave


Pyfe

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:43 pm
When raising red livebearers, you may add a little paparika to their food to make them redder. twisted Or so I hear. ninja

When breeding bettas, taping the top of a cup-cut-in-half to the edge of the aquarium (farthest from your sponge filter) will help the male create a more stable bubble-nest. Remove all gravel. Keep the female (the female must have a little ''white egg'' sticking out of her belly, signifying she is in breeding condition) in a ''breeders net'' in the tank until the nest is about as large as the cup and the female gains vertical stripes at the male''s approach. Let ''em out together for about 5-10 minutes (under close supervision!) at a time about twice a day until they agree to... Yeah. Once the female has stopped leaking eggs, remove her into a separate container. Let the male tend to the eggs and fry until they can swim sideways as well as up and down. I find baby brine shrimp is best, but powdered fry food will do. Don''t get the liquid stuff. It pollutes sooo bad. Separate the males into different containers as soon as noticed (they will be more aggresive/attractive than the females). The females may be housed together.

I guess that''s my entire experience with breeding bettas. xd I might''ve missed something though.  
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 2:02 pm
When feeding corydoras pelets, you might trigger breeding "accidentaly", and find eggs all over the glass sides of your tank.

If anybody has any hints on removing the white circles they leave, please tell me. I read somewhere that corydoras can get 400 fry, and it seams they intend on making the round number, even if they eat the fry if I don't take them out.


I tried to let nature take its course, but the fry did not make an apperence, now I take out the eggs. They are very hardy, and easely take being manhandled by big clumsy human fingers. Are easely scraped of the glass by a long fingernail, even if the handeling might trigger hatching... or at least thats what I think happen when they miraculasly hatch shortly after being put in the frybox.

The eggs clear at first, on the second day they are gray, the third day they are black and ready for hatching.

The fry live on the eggsach for two or three days, no need for feeding before then.

I "accidentaly" breed Corydoras Paleatus, but I guess it is mostly the same with all corys.  

Pantodon


Sugar Slave

PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 4:53 am
Dilla Dracomuse
When feeding corydoras pelets, you might trigger breeding "accidentaly", and find eggs all over the glass sides of your tank.

If anybody has any hints on removing the white circles they leave, please tell me. I read somewhere that corydoras can get 400 fry, and it seams they intend on making the round number, even if they eat the fry if I don't take them out.


I tried to let nature take its course, but the fry did not make an apperence, now I take out the eggs. They are very hardy, and easely take being manhandled by big clumsy human fingers. Are easely scraped of the glass by a long fingernail, even if the handeling might trigger hatching... or at least thats what I think happen when they miraculasly hatch shortly after being put in the frybox.

The eggs clear at first, on the second day they are gray, the third day they are black and ready for hatching.

The fry live on the eggsach for two or three days, no need for feeding before then.

I "accidentaly" breed Corydoras Paleatus, but I guess it is mostly the same with all corys.
I have breed corys before but the only think I can think of to add is that if the eggs aren't watched they can develop a fungus on them so a fungicide thats suitable or newly hatched babies is a good thing to add to make sure that most of the babies hatch.  
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----::::The FISH Tank::::----

 
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