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Reply 13. ✿ - - - Animals And Nature
Wolfeh's [Positive] Dog Training Guide

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Its Wolfeh

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:17 am
Updates
10/29/2010, 10:35 AM GMT -7: Added "Q: Won't feeding my dog "human food" make them sick?"


About The Author

My name is Sarah, I am currently 16 and am the daughter of a dog trainer/pet sitter/dog breeder. I've been working with her since I was nine so I know a lot about dogs, not all but a lot. So much so when I go off rambling on the internet about things people think I'm a child prodigy. When I was young I will admit I used negative methods, like choke chains and spanking, now I'm all positive. I've loved dogs all my life, as my mom has, my first word was "doggie" and I loved to crawl through the doggy door as a baby. Growing up I was completely unaware of new methods as was my mom, and once she tried positive training and had huge success she entered the world of positive dog training, and I followed and observed. I haven't seen a dog yet that has not felt the all mighty power of that yummy treat.

Now that you know a bit about me, lets move on~


Contents
Use ctrl+f (hold the ctrl key, press the f key, release ctrl key) to find things quickly.

1. Updates
2. About The Author
3. Contents (You are here)
4. The Pet Training Dictionary
5. General Process Of Training
6. What You'll Need
7. Lets Begin!

7.A ~ Remember This
7.B ~ Sit
7.C ~ Down
7.D ~ Watch Me
7.E ~ Stay
7.F ~ Come
7.G ~ Loose Leash
7.H ~ Emergency Recall
8. Tricks
9. Q/A

9.A ~ Q: My dog keeps doing its business in the house!
9.B ~ Q: My dog chews up my stuff!
9.C ~ Q: My dog won't eat its food!
9.D ~ Q: My dog's ears stink!/My dog's ears are discolored and they itch at them.
9.E ~ Q: My dog looks bloated and isn't very active!
9.F ~ Q: My dog's bowel movement looks like hair gel!
9.G ~ Q: My dog paces back and forth uncontrollably!/My dog does strange head movements or body movements.
9.H ~ Q: My dog is bleeding from the lower region! What does it mean?
9.I ~ Q: What is Parvo?
9.J ~ Q: How do I stop my dog from barking?
9.K ~ Q: My question isn't listed here!/The answer didn't work!
9.L ~ Q: Won't feeding my dog "human food" make them sick?


The Pet Training Dictionary

Cue = The word taught to the puppy/dog; sit, stay, down, etc.

Lure = The action of using the item to lure the dog into position without using force or hands.

Bait = Item that is used to lure the dog into position. It can be food, toy, whatever is the strongest motivator for the dog.

Shape = Getting only pieces of the behavior wanted, IE: Dog leans for a down, give treat. Continue shaping behavior until it is fully completed, mark with yes, and give a "jack pot" for very good behavior!

{If you're using summer sausage or a meat, just let the dog get pieces off it. That's what I prefer to do.}

Jack pot = Giving many treats {we do three} to mark a job well done! You may also use much petting with "good boy/girl". This increases the likely hood of behavior reoccurring again.

Fading the "yes" marker: After puppy/dog is understanding the cue asked of him/her, the marker of "yes" can be discontinued.

Fading the treat = Continue teaching the behavior that you want. After puppy/dog is doing the behavior at 100% without luring, but responding to voice word/hand signal, start giving the treat on a mixed up basis. IE: Sit = praise, Sit = treat and praise, Sit = prasie,
Sit = praise, Sit = treat and praise. Continue reinforcement of behavior with an occasional treat, this keeps the motivation of completing the cue that was asked, or find other ways of reinforcing, such as switching to a favorite toy, IE: Dog completes behavior, gets to tug on a toy as the reward.

Positive Marker = Using the word "yes" or a clicker to mark the correct behavior, must be used immediately following the correct behavior.

Negative Marker = The sound "ack", to teach the dog that is the wrong behavior, then redirect to the correct behavior. Can also be used to tell the dog to stop the unwanted behavior, but it is a good idea to teach the dog what behavior you would like to take the place of the unwanted behavior.

(I think "ack" sounds like "At". So to me it sounds like "atat!")

Praise = Use praise, "good dog" immediately following after giving the reward.

Release = Word used to tell the dog that it can stop doing the behavior that was asked of him/her IE: Finished, Okay, Lets go.

Keep in mind I most likely won't be using these words in the guide.


General Process Of Training

First step: Lure dog into position with bait.
Second step: When dog completes action, IE: lure into sit, dog puts bottom on the ground, mark with a "yes"
Third step: Give dog bait
Fourth step: Praise
Fifth step: Give release word

After repeating of luring into position and dog is completing full action each time, add the cue (word) that is being taught, IE: Sit, down, stay, etc.

If puppy/dog is not completing the full action IE: down; shape the behavior in steps.

Beginning training looks like: Lure, mark correct behavior, treat, praise, release.


What You'll Need

High Value Treat
Example:

Summer Sausage - Bought at Wal-Mart
Hot Dogs - Bought at many stores
Bacon Treats - Bought at pet stores, also wal-mart
Chicken - Bought at many stores

A Buckle Collar - No choke chains, mighty chains, pinch collars, anything negative like that. A collar like this one.

A Dog!


Lets Begin!

Remember This

When your dog has successfully done what you want it to do, use a "release" word. A release word lets your dog know that when it comes out of position it will be praised. You can use "Yes!" or "Okay!". Also remember that dogs tend to respond to high pitched noises, so use a high voice.

If your dog does not successfully do the treat, either do an "At at!" noise or a "No!" noise. But don't hit the dog or yell at it. At at seems to work better than no, but it can depend on the dog, so if one doesn't work try the other. If you use no, say it in a low tone. Low tone because it reminds the dog of growling. Using no is bit negative because of using the low tone, because that's using fear. So again, I recommend at at.

Say the command before doing it, unless the command info says otherwise. Your dog will then associate the word with the command, but don't say it repeatedly! Then your dog may not do the trick until you've said the word more than once.

Try and wear as much blue as possible, dogs see blue the best.

Sit

My preferred way to do sit, is have your bait in hand close to the dogs mouth to where they can lick and nibble at it, and hover it over the dogs head slowly moving above their head to where they look straight up, until they go into a sit.

Its okay if your dog jumps up in excitement from trying to get the treat, eventually they will give up and go into a sit. If they don't feel free to pull away do an atat and try again.

Tip: You may have to be near/against a wall for this, because the dog tends to back up.

Down

To do down, have the treat in hand, while the dog is sitting, take the treat, while your dog is licking it descend onto the stomach/hind leg area, until they finally plop down to a down!

Trick: If your dog slouches, then lean into that slouch with the treat. It seems to be more easy for you and your dog.

Trick: If your dog is having a hard time doing the down, sit down and put your legs in front of you, then put them up so there is a triangle gap under your legs, think of a mountain. Then put the treat under the "mountain" and let your dog crawl through into a down. Now this will take some time, especially if your dog isn't food motivated, but keep trying! You let your dog see the treat, then lure it closer and closer to the mountain, then put your arm under the mountain and let the dog see the treat, now start pulling the treat slowly through the mountain and let your dog try and crawl through. If your dog is very large or small just make the crawl space smaller or larger.

Watch Me

If a dog is fearful of a human, watch me is a really good command to get the dog used to humans, and also if your dog is aggressive with other dogs, or if he just has trouble paying attention to you! Watch me is more useful than people think.

Let your dog smell and lick the treat, but don't let them have it! Then bring it to your face and say "Watch me!" When the dog looks give the treat. If the dog is already looking when you say the word, also give the treat. That will help them get the idea real fast.

Then when walking by a dog/person, figure out what their safety zone is, which is where the dog doesn't growl or bark at the dog/person but seems uncomfortable or fearful, and use the command in the safety zone. Then go closer and closer to the threat with the watch me command, if you dog acts up by acting aggressive or fearful say atat and go back and start again. Remember to get the dog used to the subject you need to practice at least once every three days if not every day. Then try using different scary/aggravating subjects like another dog or person, as they may be used to that specific person.

If your dog is fearful you can try having the person offer the treat to the dog and after a while pet the dog. If it is aggressive I would not advise this, have a positive professional work with them.

Stay

This is best practiced in a fenced in yard or living room. You can also do it in a park on a leash. Have the dog in front of you, with the treat in hand. I would recommend not letting the dog smell/lick the treat for this trick, because then they may want to follow the treat. Put your hand in a stop sign position, with the treat under your thumb and say "Stay". Then take two steps back, and two steps forward. Give the treat. As the dog gets better and better at the command, take more and more steps back, and then forward.

If your dog follows you do the correction and start again, it sometimes takes at least three tries.

Come

This to is best practiced in a fenced in yard or living room. As stay, you can also do it in a park with a leash. This trick is so very similar to stay. Have the dog sit, then take two steps back and say "Come!". Remember that high pitched voice! You may have to slap your knees, because that tends to get dogs excited and want to come to you, If that doesn't work, then shuffle your feet while moving backwards and say "Come on!" and your dog should come. Just as stay, when your dog starts getting used to the command, start taking more and more steps backward.

Note: You may want to practice come and stay together, because the dog can often get confused if you do stay one day, come the next, and then try stay again.

Loose Leash

Loose leash training is basically like "heel". It teaches your dog to stay by you. Start walking the way you want to walk, show your dog the treat so it knows you have something yummy. When it pulls say "This way!" and turn. If your dog keeps trying to go the other way, lead it with the treat by putting it in front of its nose and letting it lick. Then take off a piece, give it to the dog and continue walking. Your dog should start looking at you more often waiting for the treat, and also staying by you!

Tip: You can also say your dog's name to get its attention.

Tip: If you have hard treats, I recommend you break them up before training, and have around 3 or more in your hand, so you can continuously feed the dog when you need to, without sticking your hand back into the treat bag and getting the dog excited.

Emergency Recall

Emergency recall is amazing for so many things. If your dog gets out, emergency recall, if your dog is barking, emergency recall.

Emergency recall is when you say a word, any word that you don't use alot, and give a treat. What we do is:

Hotdog! *treat*
Hotdog! *treat*

And so on. Then when you let your dog out and it barks say that word, for us it would be hotdog. Try and give your dog a treat as much as possible. Sometimes your dog may be too smart and purposely go outside to bark then come in and get a treat. If this happens try mixing it up by not giving a treat one time and then one the other time. Remember to be patient and give it time, rome wasn't built in a day.

Try taking your dog to your friends house and let them be in their backyard, then while they're all excited and distracted, try using it as well. You can also do this while walking your dog, and on a long leash. Sometimes if your dog gets out they're so excited and distracted by everything around them that they won't respond to it, so its good to get them desensitized.
 
PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:18 am
Tricks


COMING SOMETIME IN THE FUTURE

 

Its Wolfeh

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Its Wolfeh

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:18 am
Q/A

DISCLAIMER: Some answers here are only suggestions and
should not be used instead of a vet.

Q: My dog keeps doing its business in the house!

A: Just clean up after it, let it out as often as you can. If its too bothersome you can try controlling the food and water. Give it food and water in the morning, pick it up after 15 minutes, give it in the afternoon, again, pick it up after 15 minutes, and do the same at night.

Another way is to just pick up the food and water at night so there aren't any accidents while you're sleeping.

Another strategy is to get the dog to potty on some newspaper, and each day move it closer and closer to the door and finally outside. Then your dog will learn to go potty outside.

Q: My dog chews up my stuff!

A: When they chew on the object you don't want them to chew up, do a scream/yelp noise, or anything high pitched. When they look at you give them praise and a toy, so that they will chew on the toy instead of the object you don't want them chewing on.

For when you're not home, anything that can be put away, put it away. If its furniture and stuff like that, get it some toys. Rawhides are not approved of by me, as they can get stuck and be chocked on. Greenies, a dog bone that is green, also is not approved. They have caused several death's to dogs.

They always grow out of this.

Use something like a bone, and when it gets small enough for the dog to swallow, throw it away.

There is also tug-o-war toys, and Kong toys that you can use.

Links:

Cow Hoof Toy {What we love to use}: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10312362 (< No longer stocked)
Kong Toy: http://www.petco.com/Shop/Product.aspx?FamilyID=2324&cm_sp=certona-_-1-_-2324

^
Stuff canned dog food or something yummy in it, and let your dog try to get it out. Provides hours of entertainment for your dog =3

Q: My dog won't eat its food!

There is not a "black and white" answer for this, meaning there is MANY answers to why this is.

Now common problems and solutions:

Dog doesn't like the dog food

1. Get a different dog food
2. Mix it with something yummy like gravy, or canned dog food. If you have multiple dogs I strongly suggest that you put that dog in another room or contain it, as they can get possessive.
3. The Dog is picky. It can be the breed, or just no reason at all. Don't starve the dog, just keep trying different brands, and if nothing works try feeding it canned dog food for a while, and then maybe mix it with dog food and then just plain dog food, there's multiple strategies for a picky dog...

Medical Problems

1. Take it to the vet

The most common sign that your dog is having a medical problem, is decrease in activity. Some breeds look at their owner when they aren't feeling well. We have a dog that does that when she has yeasty ears, then we clean them and the next day she's hyper XD

Q: My dog's ears stink!/My dog's ears are discolored and they itch at them.

The most common reason is probably yeast in the ears. However, before assuming anything, first try using a regular ear cleaner, then medicated ear cleaner. You can buy just regular ear cleanse from D&B or somewhere like that. If that doesn't work, use Zymox Otic Enzymatic Solution. Especially for breeds that are just bound to have ear infections, like poodles, cocker spaniels, and other breeds with floppy ears or hair in the ears, you must buy this, there is absolutely no other product that will work on their ears. I know from experience, our labradoodle's ears got so bad that when we took him to the vet they thought we weren't treating it and neglecting him, when in reality we had been cleaning his ears with every non-vet product for ear cleaning under the sun. She gave us an ear cleaner that got rid of the infection, but once it was out it was right back.

Zymox Otic Enzymatic Solution actually treats the infection, and keeps it from coming back, unlike what the usual vet uses. It may be expensive but is well worth it, you can try looking on ebay or other sites for cheaper prices, and you can also buy a smaller bottle but it will be SUPER small and if you have to use it all the time, not just once, then a super small bottle won't be enough.

The other reason could be ear mites, which I don't have a preferred brand of ear mite medicine. You can tell that your dog has ear mites by if they:

1. Itch
2. Have black dots in the ear(s).

You can purchase ear mite medicine at many stores.

Q: My dog looks bloated and isn't very active!

Okay, if the dog is a puppy, most likely its worms. You can get de-worming medicine at many stores as well.

If its an adult dog, its most likely just fat. If it concerns you, try controlling their food and water, see "My dog does its business in the house!" for information, or de-worming them like a puppy. The dog could have eaten something outside and got infected.

It could also be other things like bloat if a large dog, or could be possibly pregnant if female but if you have her properly contained that's most likely not the issue at hand. If you're very concerned about your dog I recommend taking it to a vet when you can.

Q: My dog's bowel movement looks like hair gel!

If you have given your dog something that isn't in its usual diet it may have a gel substance in its bowel movement. Its not harmful.

If you didn't give it something that isn't in its usual diet, it could be something else, you can take it to a vet if it concerns you.

Q: My dog paces back and forth uncontrollably!/My dog does strange head movements or body movements.

The pacing is a sign of stress, from being in a pen for too long, or separation anxiety. Often shelter dogs who have been in small containment's for a long enough time for this to happen, will have it.

Strange head and body movements is POSSIBLY a sign of mental distress.

We had rescued a 6 year old shelter dog who has possibly been in the shelter all its life. He did when he isn't with me, and does strange head movements when excited. He is quite strange. We have also adopted a husky that would chronically pace all throughout the house until she was exhausted, the shelter owner said she had been in a shelter environment for 3 months.

Q: My dog is bleeding from the lower region! What does it mean?

If it is a female, it might be in heat. Female dog's have a heat every 6 months, but some dogs can be different.

Another possibility is that your dog has cancer.

If you're female dog is spayed, then yeah, take her to a vet. She could also be pregnant and in labor, but you should know if they are because they look just like a pregnant woman, but again, if they have been spayed, that's impossible.

If its a MALE, it could be cancer, or bladder problems.

Q: What is Parvo?

Its basically a deadly virus, for dogs. Usually un-vaccinated dogs and puppies get parvo.

-Signs of Parvo-

Bloody bowel movements
Throwing up
Decrease in activity

-Treatment for parvo-

Wolf Creek Ranch: Parvo Treatment

^ LOTS of information!

http://workingdogs.com/parvofaq.htm
How is Parvo treated?

Without intense treatment, the victims of parvo die of dehydration. Treatment generally consists of IV or sub-cutaneous fluids and antibiotics. There is no cure. Veterinarians can only treat the symptoms palliatively, and try to keep the dog alive by preventing dehydration and loss of proteins. As there is no cure for any virus, treatment for parvo is mostly that of supporting the different systems in the body during the course of the disease. This includes giving fluids, regulating electrolyte levels, controlling body temperature and giving blood transfusions when necessary.

Dogs who have survived parvo can get it again. In the case of some puppies, a puppy testing negative for Parvo one day could succumb to the virus within a matter of days. It strikes fast and without mercy. Dr. Cathy Priddle has warned that sulfa drugs have been known to cause dehydration in dogs, suggesting that animals infected with parvovirus should not be given sulfa drugs.

You may also consult a homeopathic or naturopathic veterinarian for alternative Parvo treatments. There are some natural and homeopathic treatments for Parvo on the retail market. Amber Technology offers Parvaid, an all natural herbal formula that the manufacturer claims has helped some animals overcome Parvo.


I would recommend however going to a vet, just to be safe. I have never personally treated parvo myself, but basically what they do is hydrate the dog. You could pay around 2,000 dollars for vets hydrating your dog.

Q: How do I stop my dog from barking?

A: Depends on what its barking at. If its another person/dog on a walk, see "Watch me". If its in the house or in the yard you can try teaching "Quiet".

Q: My question isn't listed here!/The answer didn't work!

A: Please PM me, I am available many hours of the day.

Q: Won't feeding my dog "human food" make them sick?

A: I think vets say this so that way people don't feed their dog something poisonous. But its generally not true, certain things like onions can poison your dog, but if you stick to meats and similar things they're fine. Just think of wolves, they eat meat, so meat is fine. If your dog has problems with wheat (like each time they eat a dog food that contains wheat they break out with yeasty ears and sores) then you should probably avoid things like crackers and things like that. Things like oatmeal are actually great for your dog! Oatmeal improves the coat and soothes allergies.

For more information on what is poisonous to your pet, click me.
 
PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:19 am
Reserved.  

Its Wolfeh

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Its Wolfeh

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:20 am
Reserved.  
PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:21 am
Resherved.  

Its Wolfeh

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Its Wolfeh

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:22 am
One more reserve, just in case.  
PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:24 am
And done~ If anyone has a question, feedback, or suggestion, feel free to post it. Its still pretty incomplete but I figure it will still be useful.



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Its Wolfeh

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:45 am
My dog is a very sweet dog.
He doesn't bark at people & mostly loves on anyone that comes in the house.
Our issue with him is that he doesn't come when we call him.
We go to pick him up or try to pet him & hell run away from us like its a game.
Hes gotten loose from his leash once & it took us forever to get him back. He ran until we got him along a fence.

Im afraid that if he ever gets out of the house on his own we might not get him back.  
PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:57 am
Lady Kira X
My dog is a very sweet dog.
He doesn't bark at people & mostly loves on anyone that comes in the house.
Our issue with him is that he doesn't come when we call him.
We go to pick him up or try to pet him & hell run away from us like its a game.
Hes gotten loose from his leash once & it took us forever to get him back. He ran until we got him along a fence.

Im afraid that if he ever gets out of the house on his own we might not get him back.



See "emergency recall" and basically do that with your dogs name, and then use another word for actual emergency recall. Use ctrl+f to find it quickly. Thanks for your question~



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Its Wolfeh

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13. ✿ - - - Animals And Nature

 
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