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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 3:27 am
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![User Image](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v144/Snikrot/Pred1.jpg)
The Predators
The upgrades to previously existing vehicles is continuing steadily. The two I plan on talking about in this post are my Predator tanks that are configured in the formerly known battle patterns "Annihilator" and "Destructor" or at least that is before the new wolf codex did away with those names.
As you'll see in the pictures, I've sported lots of battle damage, every thing from simple weapons fire scars to the claw marks of genestealer talons and even bigger, nastier things. As well, my twin Predators are going to have something in common that none of my other vehicles will and that is a marine sticking out the top hatch looking for a fight! I've always steered away from such because I hate the idea of such details getting broken during transit but I really want my updated army to have a strong Fenrisian feel, so the hunter tanks are going to look the part!
For the pictures directly to the right, the warrior standing ready I built with a little homage to the marvel hero Thor from the Ultimate series. I say that because the beard and grizzled look just screamed Ultimate Thor to me and while I didn't go for a hammer, I thought the axe was still a pretty sweet look. Unless you are actually familiar with space wolves sprues you probably won't notice that I've combined old and new bitz to create him. It's not a big deal but I think its still worthy of mention because honestly, the whole point of the hobby is to have fun with it and mix and match pieces to your liking. As much as I love the new stuff, I still have a decent pile of the old stuff and mixing it in I think will help immortalize the age of my army and if no one notices, well it still has sentimental value to me as the collector of the army.
![User Image](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v144/Snikrot/Pred1edits.jpg)
For those who haven't tackled battle damage before or have but are looking for some more ideas, I present to you a few tips based on how I have gone about giving my tanks the rough look only war can give.
The exacto blade is all that I used as it is sharp enough to slice into the plastic and thin enough to be versatile in what designs it creates.
Bullet holes are probably the easiest. All you have to do it point the tip of the blade against the surface that you want the hole, give a firm press and turn it like a screwdriver a few times. You'll start to carve a hole and you can either do only a few turns to create a shallow hole or do several more and puncture right through.
While this will make the hole, you'll probably find that that its a little too clean like a hole puncture to paper rather than the hard impact that comes from an actual bullet against a hard metal surface.
To achieve such a look, place the tip of the blade in the bullet hole you've already made but tilt it to a roughly 30 degree angle (no you don't have to be exact, just try and and see what works) and drag it around in the same circular motion as the hole itself. Try a combination of gentle and harder sweeps because you'll find that gentle with help give the impact look while the harder you press the more of a crater/destructive look you'll achieve.
One thing always good to keep in mind though, bullets don't always line up in neat, perfect little patterns. Rapid fire and assault weapons are more about the fire rate and spray of death rather than accuracy and so while you will still hit your target, the placement of bullet holes can be some what chaotic at times. To try and resemble this, I create something of a zig-zag pattern to start with and vary the size of each bullet hole. I end mix a few smaller ones around the pattern and include one or two large ones, not caring for separation as I don't want it to looked planned.
Notice in the pictures I've provided how the bullet holes also do not stay on one armour plate but rather fly across the surface of the tank in general. It's just a little way of giving it a little more realism assuming you have an open imagination.
![User Image](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v144/Snikrot/Pred1Damages.jpg)
Creating the scratch marks from a tyranids claws or similar isn't much harder than creating the bullet holes, it just requires a different approach.
First consider what is attacking, in my case I imagined tyranids like genestealers rending claws and even a hive tyrants massive scything talons. That in mind, I reminded myself that they have pairs of clawed arms and will attacking with both at different angels...
So I used the exacto blade to slice simple marks into different surfaces to plan out attack patterns. I worked with sets of three that angle in wards because I assume the claws will contract as they complete the slash and made the marks criss cross like its really trying to attack the same spot and break through the armour.
Once I had that established, it was a simple matter of making relatively deep cuts along the claw marks to start. Then I cut along the same lines but at different angels to slice out chunks to create shallow and deeper slashes in the armour. I also made sure to carry the slashes around the corners of armour edges to simulate the motion of the creatures claws sweeping over the armour in the attack.
![User Image](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v144/Snikrot/Pred2.jpg)
These final pictures are just to show a little more of what all happened to the tanks in general. As you can see the second warrior is a little more youthful looking with a clean shaven face and mohawk type look. This one reminded me of Soul from that crazy movie DoomsDay and so I played it up. Giving him a pistol and chain sword as it makes him more energetic and in your face I think. Which is god since he's got the lascanons which are going to be angering my enemies when they tear swathes of destruction through my opponents armoured lines.
Other little details like the wolf emblem on the turret came from the new wolf pack box while the emblem on the front of the tanks came from the old grey hunter and blood claw boxes. You may also notice a wolf pelt hanging off one of the sponsons, its a cape/cloak from the fantasy goblins box set which fit perfectly.
Note: You may notice me reference fantasy pieces a fair bit in these conversions and that's because not only do I just have them laying around in my bitz box begging for a use but they also fit the feel of the wolves. If you don't understand, do a brief google search about Scottish warriors, Vikings, Barbarians and you'll start to see where the Space Wolves get their image from.
Any who, until its time to paint these guys I think this is all I'm going to do to them.
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:32 am
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:29 am
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 12:05 pm
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Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 11:26 am
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Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:39 am
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Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 3:43 pm
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Alrighty, back on page 1 I showed my oooold Grey Hunters who've been around since the start of my getting into this hobby and whose paint jobs (multiple ones) were definitely showing their age. I also took a moment to talk about a little solution called simple green and now, as promised I have the results for all to see!
![User Image](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v144/Snikrot/SimpleGreyWolves.jpg)
To get started, I have a screw on cap plastic jar which I poured the SG solution into and then dumped all those marines into. I let them sit in the solution for just over 2 weeks because lets face it, with the different layers of tamiya model paint and games workshop paint, I wanted to make sure there was sufficient time to chew through it all.
As you can see in the bottom left image, that's what the boys look like just soaking and already the paint is looking ready to fall off. I used a cheap denture tooth brush (bought at a dollar store) to scrub the paint off and used a plastic container to store the cleaned off models in.
![User Image](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v144/Snikrot/SimpleGreenWolves2.jpg)
For those who may try this way of cleaning your models, I've included these pictures to show that it isn't a one step process to perfection. You can see that the scrubbing has indeed removed a large amount of the paint but there is still a lot of crap on there. Some models actually were all but perfectly clean (fewer coats of paint were on them no doubt) but over all, they are no where near where I want them to be. So I placed them back in the jar of simple green for another week along with some metal miniatures that I just felt it was time to finally strip the paint off of and redo (assassin models and the original wolf lord and rune priest).
After that third week of soaking, I scrubbed again and took off more of the paint but some of the final details (eye sockets and vents on packs for example) were a little clogged. So I used my trusty exacto blade and with a few gentle scraps took the excess paint right off. Here is the finished result:
![User Image](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v144/Snikrot/SimpleGreenWolves3.jpg)
oh and just a word of caution as I have recently learned, Simple Green lovesss modeling puddy. I had used some (different than GW green stuff brand though) and the SG apparently chew it up, softening it and making it break off and ruin any past sculpts I had done. Soo... should you be cleaning a model with sculpting work on it, be warned you'll be forced to redo all that work should you bath that model in Simple Green.
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